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martes, 19 de mayo de 2009

La adoración del Señor de Chalma durante el Carnaval

Hay algo curioso en el sincretismo en torno al Carnaval, en un significado prehispánico, Xipe Totec, dios de la fertilidad, era celebrado poco antes del inicio de la primavera, cuando la tierra reverdece y cambia de piel; esto sucedía en una ceremonia denominada Tlacaxipehualiztli, que significa “desollamiento de hombres”. Los hombres que eran sacrificados se volvían dioses y otros hombres comían de esa carne, creían que con ello absorbían su valentía. En el caso de los otomíes este sacrificio no era humano, se hacía con perros (Guerrero, 1986). La creencia cristiana y la creencia prehispánica casi coinciden de fecha.

La idea que tenemos de la festividad denominada Carnaval normalmente es de regocijo, fiesta y desenfreno, es comprendido como el momento licencioso antes de un largo periodo de días de guardar, el festinar consumiendo carne, misma que no estará permitida hasta pasada la Semana Santa. Pero hay una singularidad entre las comunidades otomíes de la Sierra Madre Oriental, en entidades como Hidalgo, Veracruz y Puebla, en donde también fue el Reino de Huastecapan (lo que hoy conocemos como Huasteca), es el Carnaval también una tradición pagana. Es muy especial el caso de la Sierra Tepehua, en San Bartolo Tutotepec, en donde se venera al Señor de Chalma.

Como pudimos ver en el artículo anterior, la gente que participa en el Carnaval de San Bartolo Tutotepec lo hace disfrazándose de diversas formas, bailan y beben, escuchan la música, la fiesta se da en el seno de sus comunidades y la cabecera municipal. La fiesta inicia el domingo en cada barrio o comunidad de ese municipio, el lunes las comunidades se reúnen en la cabecera municipal integrando una gran cuadrilla. Pero el Martes de Carnaval es el día más importante de la semana, ese día se hace una ceremonia y una pequeña peregrinación a el Señor de Chalma, patrono de la fiesta de Carnaval. En dicha ceremonia participan mayormente las mujeres y al frente de ellas el mayordomo, quien acaba de asumir esa misma semana el compromiso de organizar la fiesta.

Las imágenes y video son testigo de cómo se celebra el Martes de Carnaval en la comunidad otomí de El Mavodo, un lugar situado en lo alto de una montaña, en las fotos pueden apreciar cómo a un costado de la iglesia hay un peñón (justamente ése es un mavodo, cuya definición en lengua otomí es: piedra de color negro), Santiago Alejandro, uno de los pobladores, me dice que ahí hay una caverna que apenas se han atrevido a explorar pues su entrada está tapada con piedras. Más arriba está otro cerro en donde han plantado el palo del volador.

Llegamos a El Mavodo justo en el momento en que Andrés San Agustín dejaba su cargo de mayordomo a Feliciano Flores, ser mayordomo es todo un honor para un miembro de la comunidad, dura un año y dentro de ese honor está el hacer todo el gasto que conlleva la fiesta; Félix Chávez, Secretario de Turismo del ayuntamiento me comenta que tal compromiso hace que muchos pobladores vayan a Estados Unidos a trabajar por un periodo de tiempo para poder pagarla. La mañana del martes un grupo de pobladores prepara una barbacoa, las mujeres también preparan alimentos como el mole, tortillas y arroz, en otro lugar del pueblo hay unos artesanos preparando el castillo de fuegos artificiales, por otro lado van llegando un trío huasteco y una numerosa banda de viento; todo lo paga el mayordomo. Algunos jóvenes de la comunidad están todavía dormidos pues la noche anterior estuvieron bailando y bebiendo disfrazados por horas.

Al mediodía la ceremonia pagana comienza en la casa del mayordomo entrante, un chamán o brujo hace los rezos ante un altar y diversas ofrendas de flores y comida, la pequeña y antigua imagen del Señor de Chalma, mientras tanto el trío huapanguero alterna con la banda de viento tocando vinuetes, música antigua que se toca en estas solemnes ocasiones y en las honras fúnebres (pueden apreciarla en los videos), en el caso de los tríos es el violín el que lleva el ritmo. Mientras suena la música las mujeres bailan y la habitación se llena del humo del copal. Luego de que termina esta ceremonia, el mayordomo lleva en una canasta adornada al santo, lo acompañan las mujeres y se dirigen a lo alto del cerro en donde está el palo del volador, son varios metros de caminata, igualmente acompañada por la música de ambos conjuntos.

Ya en el cerro, lo que primero hace el mayordomo, los músicos y las mujeres es dar algunas vueltas al pie del palo del volador y nuevamente el chamán hace rezos ante un nuevo altar adonde permanecerá el Señor de Chalma por el resto del día. En los momentos siguiente irán llegando los hombres y niños disfrazados para continuar las festividades de Carnaval: charros, tilichudos, gorilas, gallos, carneros y otros animales, encapuchados, diablos con máscara de madera, niños que parecen adultos chiquitos, o enanos, o jorobados; estos bailadores acostumbran hacer ruido percutiendo pequeños tambores rústicos con una baqueta (que todavía se fabrican), suenan también gritos y aullidos. Toda la tarde y noche habrá comida y bebida, música y fuegos artificiales.

El palo volador

Para estas fiestas el palo del volador no tuvo danzantes, hace tiempo que ya nadie sabe bailar y descender acrobáticamente como los voladores de Papantla, en ocasiones han tenido que venir los cinco danzantes de otros lugares en Puebla o Veracruz. El palo del volador tiene un gran significado ritual para los otomíes, sobre todo es el puente entre el inframundo y el cielo, refleja las vueltas del calendario (4 hombres dan trece vueltas, lo cual da 52 que es el antiguo siglo mexicano), representa a los hombres que se vuelven águilas o dioses y es una ofrenda a la fertilidad. El ritual del palo del volador inicia cuando el grupo de pobladores acude al bosque a seleccionarlo y talarlo, para trasladarlo lo llenan de flores y lo ahúman de incienso y lo acompaña la música de un tamborcillo y flauta. Cuando el palo llega al lugar donde ha de colocarse, en el agujero echan un guajolote pequeño, una gallina, dos o tres palomas ligeramente emborrachadas con aguardiente, el palo es insertado y los animales mueren aplastados, finalmente el palo es acuñado para que no se caiga. La suerte de los animales es para evitar que alguno de los danzantes acróbatas caiga accidentalmente y a su vez un rito de fertiliadad. Los pobladores de El Mavodo nunca han pensado en ella para atraer al turismo, (Guerrero, 1986) y quizá, aunque no haya voladores, es importante que cuando menos exista el palo.


Para saber más acerca de las tradiciones de esta región, les recomiendo el libro: Otomíes y Tepehuas de la Sierra Oriental del Estado de Hidalgo de mi abuelo, el profesor Raúl Guerrero Guerrero (1986), en quien me inspiré y a quien agradezco muchos datos que explican esta crónica. Además pude comprobar que desde los años 80´s, cuando él hizo esta investigación, a estas fechas poco ha cambiado esta tradición.


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